Monday, 6 June 2022

TRAIN/BIKEPACKING as part of my response to what?!

Our dear Leader's response to his own piously declared climate/Covid emergency is to live it up with big booze 'gatherings' with cake and colleagues at Downing Street and to deny all knowledge of such fun and games.  When caught red-handed, he then apologised but remains immovable as our PM - our fun-loving, Party Master par excellence!

Having discovered that my Senior Railcard was to run out in July, I packed my rucksack, loaded my pannier rack on the 1995 mountain bike and headed for the station.  The Cambrian Coast railway is popular with tourists, in particular, and has many request stops between Aberdovey and Porthmadog.  Even the glorious coast on one side of the carriage and stunning fields, woods and mountains on the other side was not enough to keep me on board.  3.5 hrs was long enough from Smethwick Galton Bridge, so it was wonderful to pile out and cycle north from Talybont to find my quiet mountain road to track down a nice, out of way, wild camping site for a couple of nights.

The road was steep to begin with but I did it without getting off.  This was followed by half a dozen gates across the lane that took me past an ancient saint's watering hole.  I was looking for running water to wash and drink from.  Soon, above me, was a trickle of a waterfall over black rocks and halfway down a tiny rock pool but, big enough to wash my hands in as I stood at the foot of this water of life.  This was my bathroom and water tap for, now two expeditions to the same spot.  Above the water, I found a sheepfold which was oblong and against a dry stone wall on the 250 metre contour.  There I pitched my bivy tent, undisturbed by sheep, slugs or midges.  One slug, somehow, got into the tent last week, despite the zip and got squashed to death!

Back twice, the second last week when I escaped a biblical deluge by the skin of my teeth.  Twice because this is such a much more interesting area to explore than on the other side of the Rhinogiau hills that we know from Cwrt.  This is THE cottageCwrt of many decades of our acquaintance with its spartan furnishings, uncertain showers, dodgy electrics, Gordon's brilliant emergency repairs and the Grays' fire-making expertise.  And, quite amazing meals from Narelle, Mary, Alison, Linda and Becky.

I can remember we once walked over the pass to the Roman Steps to Cwm Bychan.  It's on the wrong side of the hills from Cwrt.  The western side has lots of lower lumps and bumps, llyns and lllynau, fields and even a Woodland Trust wood with a marriage tree to find.  I didn't see it.  It was fun exploring very rarely visited footpaths and rickety stiles and even a couple of the national park authority ladder stiles.

Ysgethin Inn at Talybont and the cafe in Dyffryn Ardudwy's old primary school were welcome eating and drinking establishments.  And the Talybont station waiting shelter was also a refuge for two young women cyclists from Colwyn Bay to Machynlleth when the heavens opened and they abandoned the ride.  As well as a couple walking the Wales Coast Path.  These and more piled into the crowded train when it finally came.

All this for £25 return instead of the car.  Better than the helicopter from Glasgow COP 26 to dinner in London for one VIP - guess who!

Tim

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